I start with the ground, because the soil decides whether a post-tensioned slab suits your lot or a conventional one will do the job. Once the plan is set, our crew digs out to firm soil and packs the subgrade, the ground the slab actually sits on, so it doesn't settle later the way loose fill does, and we check where water runs on the lot so it drains away from the house instead of toward it. Next come the forms, the base and the moisture layer that goes under the concrete, and I watch that layer closely because a torn or sloppy one lets ground moisture work up into your floors. Then the rebar goes in, the steel that holds the slab together, the lines in the slab get checked against the plans, and we pour early in the day so the top doesn't dry out in the heat and turn weak and dusty. After finishing, the slab cures, the wait while concrete gains its strength before anything heavy goes on it. If the budget gets tight, I'll tell you plainly I'd rather spend it on the base than anywhere else, because nobody sees the base on day one and it's the one part you can't fix once a house is sitting on it.
A slab is often one piece of a bigger build. When your house or addition calls for a raised floor or a different kind of base, that's our foundation installation work, and if you're putting up a building that needs paved parking around it, we can talk about concrete parking lot building on the same visit.
Conventional reinforced slab
This suits firm, steady ground where the soil doesn't swell and shrink much. Rebar laid through the concrete holds it together, and it's the slab most people picture when they think of a house sitting right on the ground.
Post-tensioned slab
This is the one I bring up first on clay or shifting ground. It's an engineered slab type, so whether it fits your lot comes out of the soil talk we have before anything else gets planned.